“Had a dead ash that was starting to lean toward the garage. Robert came out, explained exactly why it had to come down, and was honest about the cost. No sales pitch. In and out, clean job.”
“My old green ash was splitting down the middle. He cabled it, pruned back the weight, and showed me what to watch for. Three years later it's still standing and healthy. That's the difference between guessing and knowing your trees.”
“We have a long belt of Manitoba maples that were getting too dense and weak. He thinned them properly, didn't just hack them down. The windbreak still works, and the trees look better than they have in years.”
“After the wet snow last spring, half my yard was on the ground. He came the next day, chipped everything, and hauled it. Professional, fast, and didn't gouge me on the emergency call.”
Tree Removal in Landmark: Tight Spaces, Controlled Dismantling
Landmark yards sit on century-old shelterbelts and windbreaks, with trees that have watched over bins, fences and river banks for decades. When one of those shelter trees starts to fail, it usually leans toward something you want to keep standing. That's when I get the call. I specialize in removals where there's no room to fell a tree the conventional way: a mature elm against the house, a back-lane lot with no gate, a property on the river bank where the ground slopes away. In those tight spots, I climb the tree myself, rig it by rope, and dismantle it section by section, lowering every piece under control so nothing lands on a structure or crosses a property line.
Elm removal in Landmark follows its own rules. The provincial elm pruning ban runs from April 1 to July 31, but removals are allowed year-round. Once the tree comes down, the wood cannot go to a local chipper or a burn pile. It has to go straight to an approved disposal site, and I handle that part of the job. For most private trees on your property, you won't need a permit, but I always check the rules for your address before I start. If there's any question, I sort it out so you don't have to.
I work alone or with my crew, depending on the scope. We're fully insured, and I document everything for your records. If you have a tree that worries you, or a removal that needs precision work in a confined space, call me for a free estimate.
Hedge Trimming in Landmark: Caragana, Spruce and Cotoneaster
I trim hedges right through the season here in Landmark, where the landscape is defined by century-old yard trees and shelterbelts that frame the agricultural land. The hedges I work on are mostly caragana, cotoneaster, lilac and dwarf spruce. Cedar rarely survives our winters out here, no matter what the garden centre promises. A failing shelterbelt tree usually lands on a bin or a fence, so I get called early, before the damage spreads. That's when hedge trimming makes the most sense: before a neglected row becomes a liability.
I trim the top and both faces of a hedge wherever my equipment can reach them. I often coordinate with the neighbour so the whole hedge gets done in one visit, which saves time and keeps the line looking uniform. A caragana hedge left five years without attention will take a hard renewal cut and come back strong. A spruce hedge is different: once I cut into the brown wood, it won't regenerate. I'll tell you that before I start, so you know what to expect. The species matters, and so does the age of the last cut. I assess both before I give you a plan.
Access on Landmark properties is usually straightforward, though I check the lay of the land and where my truck can position itself. If you have a hedge that needs attention or you're not sure whether it can be restored, call me for a free estimate. Phone (431) 444-5195.
Stump Grinding in Landmark: Reclaim Your Yard
Out here in Landmark, I see a lot of century-old yard trees and shelterbelts that have finally given up. When one comes down, the stump is never just a stump. A mower catches it, suckers keep sprouting, and in our heavy clay the wood slumps as it rots. That's when I get the call. I grind the stump low enough that you can re-sod over it, plant something new, or simply reclaim the space. The chips stay on your property unless you want them hauled away, or I can backfill the hole so you're left with clean ground.
Elm is different. If the stump is elm, those chips go straight to an approved disposal site and never stay on your land. I follow the rules on that. I also grind stumps that somebody else walked away from years ago, the ones that have become a permanent fixture in a corner of the yard. Tell me where it is and what condition it's in, and I'll give you a price for nothing. No obligation, no sales pitch.
I work with my own grinder and handle the whole job myself. A free estimate takes a few minutes over the phone or in person, so you know exactly what the work will cost before I show up. Call The Winnipeg Arborist at (431) 444-5195 to arrange yours.
Tree Pruning in Landmark: Structural Work for Shelterbelts
Out here in Landmark, I see a lot of century yard trees and shelterbelts that take a beating. A failing belt tree usually lands on a bin or a fence, so I get them early. Pruning is structural work, not cosmetic. When I prune, I lighten the crown, open the centre, and cut the load down. That matters in this part of Manitoba because a wet October snowfall landing on trees still in full leaf is what breaks branches. A heavy, dense canopy holds snow and ice like a cup. I thin it so the weight sheds, and the tree stands through the winter.
I won't top a healthy tree, no matter who asks. Topping creates weak branch angles and forces the tree to grow back denser than before, which defeats the whole purpose. On a big boulevard elm, I'll split the job across two winters because elm can only be pruned between August and March. That's a provincial rule I follow strictly. Before I climb, I show you the cuts and explain why each one matters. Looking costs you nothing. I'll walk the site, point out what I see, and tell you straight whether the tree needs work now or can wait.
I work alone and I document everything. I bring my own chipper and haul the brush off your property. If you've got a shelterbelt or a yard tree that's crowded or heavy, call me for a free estimate. Phone (431) 444-5195 and we'll set up a time to walk through it together.
Tree Cabling and Bracing in Landmark
Out here in Landmark, I see a lot of yard trees and shelterbelts that have split unions or cracked scaffold limbs. A failing belt tree usually lands on a bin or a fence, so I get the call early. When I arrive, I often find a tree worth saving, not cutting down. That matters to me because we have the biggest urban elm canopy left on the continent, and we are losing thousands of them a year already. If I can cable a tree instead of felling it, I do.
I fit a flexible cable between the leaders to stabilize a split union, and sometimes I install a brace lower down where a limb is cracked and carrying weight. The cable does not strangle the tree as it grows; it works like a seatbelt, taking tension off the weak point so the tree can compartmentalize and heal. After I install it, I come back to check it and adjust as needed. The work keeps a tree on your land instead of a stump, and it keeps the canopy intact through the seasons when you need it most.
I will tell you straight: I won't cable an elm that has been tagged for Dutch elm disease. No cable saves an infected tree, and I would rather tell you that now than waste your money and delay the removal. For any tree with a structural defect, call me for a free estimate so I can see what we are working with.
Landmark, as the arborist sees it
When I work in Landmark, I'm looking at a landscape shaped by shelter and wind. The terrain here sits open, and the trees that matter most are the ones planted generations ago to break the weather: long shelterbelts of green ash and Manitoba maple running fence lines, and older specimen trees anchored in century yards. These aren't street trees under municipal care; they're private land, and they're often the only windbreak between a house and the prairie. I see a lot of cottonwood too, fast-growing and brittle when the years pile on. The soil runs heavy clay, which means roots spread wide and shallow, and when a storm comes through, trees don't always stay upright.
My work here is different because failure has real consequences. A failing belt tree doesn't just drop a branch; it lands on a bin, a fence, or worse. So I get the calls early, before the damage happens. I prune to reduce weight, cable limbs that are splitting, and sometimes I remove what's beyond saving before it decides the outcome on its own. Winter is hard on these trees, wet snow loads everything down, and I see the damage by March. The Landmark Arena and the surrounding properties all carry mature trees that need that kind of foresight. I check with Landmark's local authority on any elm work because the provincial pruning ban runs April through July, and I respect that everywhere. It's not complicated: I show up, I read the tree, and I tell you what it actually needs.
